OCC Skin Airbrush Foundation

 
Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Skin  in R3

• Size 30mL/1oz
• Availability - Obsessive Compusive Cosmetics website and select retailers
• Colour range - 6 Yellow, 6 Reds, 6 Blush & Contour, 6 Shimmers and 6 correctors
• Water based

I tried three of the colours from the red or ruby set, R0, R3 and R5. It is water based with no oils or silicones. Does not need thinning. It is very lightly scented and smells fine. The consistency of all three was different.

The R0 was to thin, the R3 was just right and the R5 was to thick.

I tried applying it with a standard brush and fingers but it tended to bubble up with a white film when rubbed and did not apply evenly. The blue separated from the R5 dark brown and left a blue stain on the skin.

Next I loaded up my airbrush and set it at between 10-12psi. Being very thin the pressure tends to move it around and gather if you are not careful. It is quite thin and gives a sheer matte finish. It is a little too matte for my liking.

Feels fine on the skin with no tightness. Layering can be achieved without getting the leathery look. Becomes slightly tacky after more than one layer. Fairly slow drying, to slow for me. Drying time varied between colours.

The thin R0 gathered around hairs easily and sank into creases which was not good. I did not have this problem with the R3. I did not find it incredibly water resistant as advertised and it transfers fairly easily.It was not easy to repair and tends to gum up when moved once set.

I wore it on my arm for sometime then ran it under the tap to test the water resistance. It stayed on until I touched it, then a film formed and turned the water white. This has to be due to all the white ingredients.

It came of easily with water and a light soap cleanser. The R5 did leave a blue trace that had to be rubbed harder to remove.

Overall: Good range of colours but too many problems to recommend it.

Pros:

• Flows well, never clogs
• Atomizes well
• Easy to mix

Cons:

• Inconsistent mix
• Transfers easily
• Separates
• Too thin for anything but airbrush

MAC Micronized Airbrush Formula

NC40 MAC Micronized Formula.

• Size - 50mL/1.7oz
• Availability - MAC Pro stores only
• Colour range - matches standard MAC foundation colours
• Silicone based

I purchased this product in 2010 from a MAC Pro store in Canada for around AUD$35. The bottle is a decent size with a good dropper top on it.
Thanks to my friend David Willis of Vida Studios I tried the original formula that came out a few years ago and it was terrible, it was hard to mix, had a plastic shine and  tended to separate on the skin. So when I found this version I had to try it.

It is ready to straight from the bottle, does not need thinning. It is silicone based, so will not thin with or mix with any water or alcohol products.
If you do want to thin it, a silicone fluid like DC 244/245 is required.
I used my standard Sparmax DH-103 brush and set my compressor to 10-12 psi. It sprays nicely with a good clean well atomised look. With the trigger pulled right back for maximum spray width it gets a bit grainy. You should not have the trigger all way back around a persons face any way, so it is not a problem. Thinning slightly will correct this but slow down the drying time.

When applied properly it sits very well on the skin and does not sink into lines and creases. Dries quickly to a natural sheen, which is something I look for or I will not use it. I would recommend powdering lightly as it has a slight tackiness. It feels good on the skin with no tightness and stays well with movement.The coverage is medium but can can be layered without getting the leathery or caked on look. Put on to thick it will look plastic and tend to rub off more easily.

Once set it is rub and water resistant, there is very little transfer when applied correctly. I light buff will remove any excess and return the sheen.
It is fairly easy to repair mistakes or wear. While wet it can be brushed or sponged to remove excess or spread it out. Once dry it does not leave the watermark edge that some products do when a section is wiped away and can easily be filled in with a few more passes with the airbrush.

To remove it you will need a remover as it is water and soap resistant. I used the DC 244 for removal. Most removers for waterproof makeup should also be fine. The airbrush should also be cleaned well as the product will build up inside the brush quite quickly, leading to blockages.

Overall: A good product that is easy to use.


Pros:

• Good colour range
• Mixes and sprays well
• Dries quickly
• Durable
• Looks natural
• Does not clog
• Far better than original formula

Cons:

• Only available at MAC pro stores
• Can't mix with non silicone products
• Residue builds up quickly in the brush

Test pattern sprayed at 10psi on 5mm graph paper, you can see wide open it starts to spatter.